This weeks post is how to draft a mandarin collar pattern also known as a chinese collar. For drafting this sleeve first make the pattern on paper. See more ideas about pattern, sewing and sewing patterns. See more ideas about collar pattern, pattern and pattern drafting. The precision of the seam allowance is not important im doing it little bigger than the pattern, since the interfacing will used as a guide. How to draft a mandarin collar pattern the creative curator. And ditto on vintage sewing books, i have a few from the 40s and 50s and i still find them very useful, since they cover some stuff that newer books doesnt. The making of a shirt starting from the pattern the shapes of fabric. It sits open much more elegantly than a traditional, tailored shirt collar, yet does not appear too casual. How to make sewing patterns solves the mysteries of pattern drafting with easy, stepbystep instructions and clear line drawings that show how to create customfit garments in a wide range of designs. Tips for drafting a wing collar sewing discussion topic.
I used to walk into spotlight and stayed an hour just to browse the pattern books. Get started on fashion design pattern making beginner intermediate course. Measurements on the ruler are from 80cm to 8cm for chestbust, waist and hips. Worn open, the collar creates a lapel for a tailored, almost jacketlike opening. It can be worn open or closed hence the name, and looks very nice in a contrast fabric. Jan 24, 2020 explore enedredos board pattern making 4, followed by 273 people. Ive been drafting and sewing for years, but never had to make a mandarin collar, and you certainly saved her day for her. See more ideas about sewing collars, sewing and collars. I have received many emails from my readers asking me how to make a chinese collar, and so a tutorial on drafting a mandarin collar pattern seemed like a great starting point. To open, we need to discuss collar pattern drafting. Snazzy sport shirtwing collarpatch pocketspattern drafting designall. Roll collar is a stand collar which is then folded or rolled over. In school and in books, we are taught to do whatever shaping by whatever means to come up with our collars shape.
Inspired by the great british sewing bee 2015, ive been looking for mens patterns. The center for pattern design is reprinting many of the great outofprint books. Discover classes on pattern making, digital patterns, fashion design, and more. Il modellismo the pattern making book for the pattern. I am extremely happy and my search for the perfect pattern making book is over.
Those books were often at least an inch thickwith about 500700 pages of designs. This allows the collar seam to roll to the bottom of the collar, rather than sticking out like a sore thumb at the edge of the collar. None of the patterns have zippers, and only a few have button or hook enclosures. Learn about the different kinds of choices you have in choosing a collar for your. The book il modellismo, that can be used both in the sartorial and industrial tailoring, teaches how to create patterns by hand. I was actually looking for ways people adjusted ginger jeans, when i came across this blog kat makes and shes doing a lot of great stuff and despite the fact that she has a completely different shape to me, i found lots of really cool stuff on her page. See more ideas about collar pattern, sewing collars and pattern drafting. The best patternmaking book ever gerties new blog for. And ive been adding to this list when i find a new source. Precisely cut out interfacing to the exact pattern shape, adding a. Butterfly collar, the same as the wing collar, but with rounded tips.
The only instructions i could find in the 4 drafting books i own were completely incomprehensible. In this first installment, i give a little introduction on the process including what tools youll need and then show you. This variety of collar is cut as an extension of the garment front neckline. It is, however, the collar used on camp shirts, often made of brightly colored prints hawaiian shirts use the. The best patternmaking book ever i love vintage sewing books. Unlike a shawl collar, which folds down at the back neck, the one shown stands up, creating a funnellike silhouette. Great book for pattern makers of all levels by david dwyer great book for pattern makers of all levels. The pattern drafter and the childrens pattern drafter have both been developed to ease that pain. Etsy is the home to thousands of handmade, vintage, and oneofakind products and gifts related to your search. Drafting collars collars can also be drafted from scratch and. It is basically a band which stands upright on the neck. The convertible collar offers a bit more structure to a shirt or blouse than the peter pan, but is not as tailored as a banded shirt collar. Im thinking i can join the old pattern collar to the front bodice and facing, extending the lines instead of having a notch, and likely get about the same amount of collar and roll as the old pattern.
The pattern drafter is designed for beginners, students and professionals. Measuring down from top line to mark o 1, for over 38 bust 1. My favorite pattern drafting books fashionincubator. Making the roll collar coat detailed instructions and many clear diagrams. Easy pattern drafting by cathy hay a couple months ago, i spent several days straight working on trying to draft a basic block that came somewhere close to fitting me, and despite consulting various sources, including this article and the costume technicians handbook, the formulas just never worked right. How to draft basic patterns by ernestine kopp, grading techniques for fashion design by jeanne price, professional pat. I was able to apply some of the pattern drafting skills i just learned from pennie laird. Modern pattern design by harriet pepin is available again and if you do not have one of the vintage copies, this is a great chance to get it.
To begin, start by learning how to draft a collection of slopers or blocks. Sewing ebooks the how to make jeans pdf ebook from angela kane. Often making an appearance in alexander wang collections, ss14 was no different see banded collars in wangs collection here. Wing collar blouse pattern simplicity 4237 bust 32 or 34 womens vintage. Simplicity 2365, wing collar shirtdress i bought this pattern, simplicity 2365, sometime last year, i think.
I was very happy to find that lincraft sold out of season pattern books for only aud5 each. I used to only look for the most current books, until i had a light bulb moment. A practical guide to advanced pattern making aimed at fashion students and serious home dressmakers, pattern drafting for fashion. Apr 28, 2017 how to make a tailored collar plan and pattern in 9 steps easy to follow. Pattern making basics, how to get started designing and drafting patterns that are tailored to your body. Drafting a pattern from a book in a foreign language can be intimidating. See more ideas about sewing patterns, pattern drafting and collar pattern. These two pattern drafting rulers, with stepbystep instructiondesign books, will not only give you the ability to get that perfect fit, but also give you the confidence to make clothing for men, women and children of any age, size or shape. Later i ended up moving the starting point upwards.
Sleeve block pattern drafting setin semi fitted video. No matter what youre looking for or where you are in the world, our global marketplace of sellers can help you find unique and affordable options. The books detailed instructions on measuring and fitting include doityourself photographs as well as directions for creating custom dress forms. Pattern drafting collars university of fashion blog. Jan 04, 2018 just follow my 8 steps and the verification of the fall, to make a nice shawl collar pattern. I rarely read the instructions and follow the pictures when sewing.
Some are listed in my post on my favourite books on pattern drafting. Manipulating darts to move them where ever you want them, or change them into attractive shaping seams and slashing and spreading your pattern to add fullness are two of the most commonly used methods of drafting a pattern. Mar 24, 2014 a banded collar is a narrow band collar, usually between 34. Pdf pattern development for menswear using block method. I loved looking at the design elements of each piece and studying the technical drawings. Must buy for anyone interested in pattern making sewing. Dec 23, 2019 this weeks post is how to draft a mandarin collar pattern also known as a chinese collar. May 09, 2012 simplicity 2365, wing collar shirtdress i bought this pattern, simplicity 2365, sometime last year, i think. Also with the verification of the back fall so there is no surprise and it fall perfect the first time. If youve never sewn a shirt before, though, it might be easiest to start with a basic tshirt. A tale and tutorial of three collars fashionincubator. You might think theres nothing for men learning to sew for themselves, between making a cushion cover and tailoring a suit, but in fact there are many options.
Shirtdresses have been popular the past few years, but i find dresses tricky to fit without a waist seam see, e. A variation of the wing tipped collar with large lapels. You can learn pattern drafting on many fashion design courses either on a short further education course or as part of a fashion degree at a university. The blouse pattern im using is colette patterns sencha.
Im thinking i can join the old pattern collar to the front bodice and facing, extending the lines instead of having a notch, and likely get about the same amount of. Aline skirt pattern making drafting video lesson on dvd instructor. But yes, the front part at least of this collar is the shape i am after. In clothing, a collar is the part of a shirt, dress, coat or blouse that fastens around or frames the. Now being a lady ive been looking for a ladies shirt with wing collar. Drafting collars wide rollfitting collars 3 styles simplified method how to draft pattern style 1 1 and 2 for double breasted front, extend width of lower part of front. Shirtdress with winged collar and princess seamed bodice from. The flat pattern drafting method is the most commonly used method in menswear. Check out our pattern drafting selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade. I turned to one of my pattern making books for collar inspiration, doodled a couple of sketches, and then started taking measurements from a duck i had from the 2011 duck hunt. I have only just started to think about drafting patterns, and with the help of this book i had drafted a skirt pattern within an hour. If you want a curve like in the above diagram when drafting mark 1. Cant find one so i thought maybe i can use a shirt pattern like this and alter the collar into a wing collar.
Fundamentals of patternmaking for womens apparel book ii. Flat pattern drafting lessons free sewing videos from. Jun 24, 2009 thank you for the pattern book tip, have not encountered this one before, i really like that skirt treatment on the dress view b. Sewing pattern drafting ebook how to draft a trousers pattern with. You may already know this but i just wanted to make sure. Click on any lesson picture, below, to learn more about that lesson.
The books detailed instructions on measuring and fitting include doityourself photographs as well as directions for creating custom dress. With these 2 basic pattern drafting techniques, you can achieve any shape you desire. May 18, 2020 basically, there are just 3 types of collars the stand collar, flat collar and the roll collar. You use the pattern drafter to make block patterns for bodice, sleeves, collar and pants, for men, women and teens in any shape and size. She conceived the idea of making a collar which could be detached from the shirt and washed separately.
The book is addressed mainly to students from fashion institutes and skilled tailors, but thanks to the simple and clear language it can be used by all lovers of couture. Patternmaking for fashion design by helen josepharmstrong, metric pattern cutting for womens wear by winifred aldrich. You want your under collar to be just a teensy bit smaller than your upper collar. As promised, here is part one of my video tutorial on making a peter pan collar for a blouse, like the one i wore here. As long as you know how to operate a sewing machine, you can sew your own shirt. Peter pan collar pattern drafting and variations video lesson on dvd. But, dont worry, japanese sewing and craft books are very straightforward once you get started. Snazzy sport shirtwing collarpatch pocketspattern drafting design all. Online pattern making classes start learning for free. Pattern making enables you to translate your designs from a single prototype into one or many millions of final products. The basics is a comprehensive guide to making your own patterns from start to finish. This ebook illustrates every step from the video series flat pattern drafting.
Its a critical input into the manufacturing process for your designs. This was the only coherent instruction i could find for the mandarin collar she needed. And, why is it so important that you know the tools, supplies, and techniques used in pattern drafting. Ive come another great resource for drafting patterns. So, i thought this week i would start with the mandarin collar, as it is a. Im making a doctor who outfit and i need a shirt with a wing collar. Pattern drafting 101 the basic block pattern july, 2010.
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